Boxing Equipment Buyer's Guide

When starting a boxing or fitness-boxing regime, it is important that you use the appropriate equipment to ensure your safety and give you the most effective boxing workout.

Boxing Gloves

Generally, there are two types of gloves that boxers and fitness boxers use are boxing gloves and bag gloves.

Boxing gloves are typically used for sparring. However, many people choose to wear boxing gloves to add additional weight to their aerobic or kickboxing workout programs. Boxing gloves range from 10-20 oz, and the weight of the boxing glove will determine the intensity of your workout.

For professional and amateur bouts, boxers tend to use 10 oz gloves. However, they prefer to train with heavier gloves to increase arm strength.

Boxing gloves may be constructed of many different materials. The outer cover may be made of top-grain leather (the highest quality) or similar synthetic leather materials (generally less expensive). Most gloves are lined with cotton material and hand stuffed with shock-absorbing foam and/or wool blends.

Most boxing gloves have a thumb-lock feature that prevents accidental gouging of an opponent's eye. Boxing gloves have varying wrist closures. They may be laced, laceless with elastic and/or Velcro or any combination of these. For workouts, athletes prefer the elastic and Velcro gloves, which allow them to easily take the gloves on and off.

Bag Gloves

Bag gloves may be used to train on heavy bags and speed bags. Bag gloves tend to have less padding than boxing gloves and are usually less expensive. Bag gloves are designed to withstand the repeated pounding on heavy bags and speed bags and are usually constructed of top-grain leather. They may also be made of cowhide, horsehide or synthetic materials (horsehide tends to be more durable, but may be heavier). Padded palm grips and metal palm grips provide better fit and comfort.

Heavy Bags

When selecting a heavy bag, there are many variables that need to be considered—

Hanging bags may mount to the wall or ceiling or to a bag stand.

Standing bags, on the other hand, stand alone. Their bases may be filled with sand or water.

Heavy bags may have a thick synthetic foam filler for shock absorbency, while others are filled with shredded rags and sand. These bags have a more solid feel and provide a lot of resistance.

Still other manufacturers offer heavy bags that may be filled with water. Water-filled bags are much easier on your hands and wrists, in fact your whole body, than a traditional bag because the water helps to absorb the impact of your punch, however, it still provides a great workout. An added bonus is that because the bag is shipped unfilled, it is much less expensive to send.

An unfilled bag is a good alternative, especially for international customers, who do not want to pay the high cost of shipping a pre-filled bag. The bag is filled with bits of rag or other soft material and small bags of sand for added weight. Pre-filled bags are hydraulically stuffed, so you will not be able to achieve this if you fill the bag by hand. However, we have not had an unfilled bag returned. We recommend talking to your local fabric shop to see if they have anything you can use for filler.

Heavy bags range from 25 pounds to 200+ pounds. You want to have a bag that is sufficiently heavy to not move around too much while you are pummeling it. For the average person, a bag in the range of 70-100 pounds should be heavy enough. Most gyms, fitness centers and health clubs prefer 100-150 pound bags to accommodate extensive use.

The covering really depends on your budget and expected use. A leather bag will last longer than either a synthetic or canvas bag, but is more than twice the price. For the home user or commercial club that is unsure how much use the bag will get, we suggest a synthetic bag. We recommend a synthetic covering over a canvas one because the synthetic bag is much easier to clean and resists mildew. For professional, military or heavy commercial use we suggest a professional leather bags. If your budget can afford it, you may want to opt for the professional bags which are the most durable.

Free Standing Bags

Free standing boxing punch bags offer nearly all the advantages of a ceiling hung bag. Free standing punch bags are built to last, and just require either water or sand in the base to keep them firmly in place. Free standing bags are good visible target pratice, a boxer can see oponent part being targeted and hit.

Speed Bags

Speed bags are pear-shaped bags that hang from a solid platform.

The size of the speed bag determines how fast it will be. Smaller speed bags require more coordination and skill.

If you are a beginner, you may want to start with a larger bag until you learn the rhythm. We recommend a middle-sized bag for beginners. When starting out, don't fill the bag all the way (the bag is slower with less air). Practice for a while and as your skill increases, add more air to the bag to speed it up.

Intermediates and experts will probably want a smaller bag. The smaller the bag, the faster it rebounds-the harder it is to hit.

Double-End striking bags are round and secured to both the floor and ceiling. DE striking bags may be used for punching and kicking, bobbing and weaving.

Speed Bags and Striking Bags are usually made of durable high quality leather.

Boxing Basics

Boxing is a very challenging and rewarding sport. Benefiting not only your bones and muscles, boxing is also great for the psyche. Here, we will provide you with the fundamentals of boxing-basic techniques and helpful hints to improve your skills and uplift your spirit.

We suggest that you go through all the tips below in order. Enjoy!

Hand Wraps

Proper hand wraps is important and very much essential to avoid injuries to bones and skin of the hands. Please make sure you follow the steps below carefully

Hold the Wrap by the handle and look at the clockwise indicator on the label, Figure 1. If the wrap is wound clockwise on the Wrap, you will wrap your right hand first. If the wrap is wound counter-clockwise, start with your left hand. Remove the black elastic band and set aside.

Place the thumb loop around your right thumb and start with the hand wrap across the back of your hand.

Wrap a few times around your wrist and then at least once around your thumb. The hand wrap should feel snug around your wrist and hand, not tight.

Now wrap your knuckles a few times keeping the fingers of your right hand spread apart. With the remaining hand wrap, alternate wrapping your wrist once or twice and then your knuckles once or twice.

Periodically, make a fist to make sure you have not wrapped your hand too tight. Finish wrapping around your wrist and secure the hand wrap with the Velcro strap.

Securing Your Stance

The following instructions are for right-handed boxers. Left-handed boxers should reverse their hands and feet.

Stand with your feet shoulder width apart.

Move your left foot towards your right foot so that your left toes meet your right toes at an angle. This may seem difficult at first. Your feet may end up being staggered, which could cause you to forget about keeping your hips forward. With practice, this stance will feel more and more natural.

With your left foot, step forward approximately twelve to fifteen inches. The toes of your left (front) foot should be pointed between 12 and 2 o'clock. Raise the heel of your right (back) foot slightly off the floor. Your right toes should also be pointed between 12 and 2.

Check your stance. Your hips should be level, even though your feet are a bit staggered. Always keep your hips directly under your shoulders and directly over a midpoint between your feet. Your body should always work as a solid unit.

Raise your left hand to cheek level. Your palm should be facing your face. When making a fist, close your hand so that the tips of your fingers touch your palms. Rest your thumb against the knuckle of your middle finger.

Carry your right hand at chin level, again with your palm facing you. Make sure that you do not bring your shoulders back up around your ears.

When in your stance, keep the heel of your back foot slightly off the floor. Distribute your weight equally between both feet. Do not tip forward onto the balls of your feet. If you feel yourself doing this, distribute more of your weight down through your arches and heels. Make sure to keep your elbows in, pressed against your body. Always remember to breathe deeply from your diaphragm.

Punching Techniques

Below are some most common Punching Techniques

This punch has many purposes:

• Increase the distance between you and your opponent.
• Use it to set up other punches and punch combinations.
• Or, use the jab simply as a solid blow to your opponent's face.

Shift most of your weight onto your right (back) leg. This assists in counterbalancing your body when you throw the punch.

Fully extend your arm. Just before your fist/glove strikes the target, rotate your hand so that your thumb is facing the floor. Remember to keep your wrists straight to avoid injury. Also, keep your elbow slightly flexed at the point of impact (otherwise, you might hyperextend it).

Return your arm back to your body. Remember, the punch always remains on one plane-throw and retract your punch without weaving up or down or side to side

Do not allow your shoulders to lead. This may cause you to bend at the waist when making your punch. Keep your shoulders back.

When throwing your jab, keep your muscles slightly tensed. Anchor your punch by contracting your back and butt muscles.

It is important that the movement of your feet coincides with the movement and placement of your punch. Properly stepping with the jab will ensure that your punch is effective.

When punching with your left hand, step forward with your left foot. As your foot contacts the floor, your arm should reach its full extension. (Remember to keep your elbow flexed when throwing this punch.)

At this point, your weight is primarily distributed to your right leg. Now, you have invaded your opponent's space and delivered a punch to their face.

After completing the punch, return your arm to its position level with your left cheek. Bring your rear foot up so that your feet are in their correct, original stance, slightly more than shoulder width apart.

Use the straight right after you have set up an opening with your jab.

After establishing your stance, shift your weight to your left leg. Pivot your right (rear) foot so that your toes are pointing forward, while simultaneously delivering a right punch. Remember to push against the floor with your rear foot. (At the very last moment, rotate your fist so that your thumb is facing the floor.)

Pull your hand back on the same plane the punch was thrown. Return your rear foot to its original position-toes pointing between 12 and 2 o'clock.

Unlike the other punches, the hook is a bent-arm punch. The power of this punch is generated by a move known as a body whirl. In order to perfect this punch, try to master each movement one step at a time before going on to the next step.

Stand with your feet shoulder width apart. Your weight should be equally distributed between your feet. Bring your fists together and hold them against your chest (with palms facing your chest).

Shift your weight to your right leg while simultaneously rotating your body to the right. Pivot on the ball of your left foot so that your toes end up pointing toward your right foot. You will notice that this movement causes your arms to move along with it. Stop rotating when your elbow reaches about the midpoint in front of you.

Try this move again with a slight variation. Shift your weight to the right foot. Pivot on the ball of you left foot until your toes point toward your right foot. Immediately, snap your left arm up into a ninety-degree angle. Your left fist should stop at a midpoint in front of you.

This is called a lateral punch. The power of the hook comes from the momentum of your body rotating and the resistance of your foot pushing off of the floor. At this point, the left side of your torso should be in line with the direction of your punch.

Return your left foot back to its original position and bring your left fist back to its cheek level position.

The Right hook and left hook are virtually the same. The only difference is that you rotate your body in opposite directions.

Here are few basic steps for uppercut

To throw a right uppercut, start in the classic boxing stance with the back (right) knee bent. Lower the right shoulder to drop the right side of the body in a semi-crouch position. Remember to keep the left fist up by the chin to protect the head.

Now as you rotate the hips forward, push the ball of the back foot, (the right foot), and punch the right fist up towards the target. The right side of the back and the right shoulder will follow through with the rotation of the hips.

The hips finish being squared to the front. The right arm always stays close to the body and moves upward in a semi-circle. For the most effective and powerful punch, keep the elbow bent at a right angle during the delivery and follow through.

Uppercuts to the body will cause the opponent's body to fall forward. Step away slightly and complete the combination with another uppercut to the head.

When practicing this punch stay close to the target. If the punch is thrown from the outside, the opponent will be able to easily detect that the punch is coming and counter with an effective straight punch. An uppercut from the outside also loses some of its power because the arm is no longer bent at the elbow and cannot effectively transfer the total body's force in the upward movement.

Punching the Heavy Bag

Below are some important punching the heavy bag while keep the perfect balance

After wrapping your hands, put on a suitable pair of bag gloves. Gloves will help absorb the shock of your punches and protect your hands from abrasion.

Extend your arm so that your glove touches the heavy bag. Determine your reach or your punching distance. Execute a jab. As the arm is extended the glove should be in tight contact with the bag. Repeat a few times to become comfortable with the feel.

Always remember the following when striking the heavy bag:

• Clench your fists.
• Make sure your wrists are straight.
• Keep your elbows slightly flexed
• Turn with your shoulders
• Twist at the waist
• Push with your hips and toes
• Keep your knees bent

Focus and hit in the center of the bag. Each time you throw a punch, exhale. This will help regulate your breathing and give you some extra mmphh! Many athletes believe that exhaling makes it less likely to get your wind knocked out.

Watch as the bag moves away and hit it directly and quickly as it returns to you. Mix up the straight punches, a few jabs and then a straight right. Always try to punch through the heavy bag, rather than at it.

Next, add movement and more power. Step into the punches and step out. The glove hand moves forward as the front foot moves forward. The glove returns back to the shoulder as the back foot returns back.

Now have a plan and mix it up a bit. Move around, slip and throw a few jabs to determine your reach and target area. Move in closer to the bag and throw hooks and uppercuts.

Speed Bag Techniques

The purpose of a speed bag is to improve hand-eye coordination. When using the speed bag, it is important to wear hand wraps or bag gloves to protect your hands.

Make sure that the positioning of the speed bag is adjusted for your height. The bottom of the bag should be level with the bottom of your chin. Usually, speed bag platforms are easily adjustable. Address the speed bag square with the body, both fists up and in front of the face. This is the one time you do not have to be in the boxer's stance.

To perform a backhand punch, hit the lower part of the striking bag with the side of your fist (near your little finger).

The bag will swing back, hit the backboard, come forward, hit the backboard, swing back, and hit the backboard. When the bag comes forward again, strike it with a backhand or straight punch. This may seem tricky at first, but be patient and eventually, you will master the rhythm.

Repeat striking the bag with the PUNCH-1-2-3 rhythm, keeping both hands up by the face. Work with one fist, then the other, taking the arm through a circular motion. As you punch faster tighten up this circular range of motion that the arm goes through. practice hitting the bag with your other hand. Once you feel comfortable.

The most important thing is to be patient. When first starting, the speed bag will probably go all over the place. If it goes in circles, try hitting it softer. If it is barely moving, simply strike it harder. Eventually, you will get a feel for the bag and be able to speed up your punches and alternate between hands. It's all a matter of timing.

If the bag is moving too fast, try a larger-sized bag or let some air out of the bladder to slow it down.

Hitting a Double-End Striking Bag

There is an entirely different rhythm to hitting the double-end bag, than any other punching bags. Heavy bags don't punch back, double-end bags do! You learn to bob and weave, slip and duck, keep your hands up and move your head. When you strike the double-end bag, it will react by moving quickly away, then rebound back right at you.

You can either wear your boxing gloves, striking mitts or hand wraps when hitting the double-end striking bag. Boxing gloves give a larger contact surface and initially may be a better choice. Work towards using just hand wraps or striking mitts.

Address the bag in your boxing stance, hands up and get ready to move. Stay light on your feet, the weight centered more towards the front of the feet.

Strike the bag and slip out of the way of the rebound. You do not have to strike with a lot of power, work on technique. Try to strike in the center of the bag at first, making the bag move directly back and straight at you. Move out of the way and then strike the bag again. Practice your slips, add footwork, move in and out, circle the bag, and mix up the punches.